How can I use the compressor from the refrigerator as an airbrush

article on the use of the old compressor from the refrigerator, for use in airbrushing. So chapter one: mining. Usually in our latitudes, the habitat of wild or feral compressors is rather small, although exceptions occur. Most often they can be found near the garbage in the courtyards of houses or in cellars, where all rubbish is stored. Usually they are tightly fastened to a large white box, which in the common people call a refrigerator and store beer in it. To hunt a wild compressor with your bare hands will not work, it won't be given to you just like that. In the meantime, you will run for weapons, a wild compressor may well become a home, but already a stranger. At itself it is necessary to have a special set of weapons - pliers, screwdriver flat and cross, 2 keys on 12X14.When a large white box is found, it is necessary to inspect it carefully, usually the compressor is hiding in its lower part from behind. If the compressor is found and if you have the necessary set of weapons, you can proceed to the extraction. Compressor extraction is an easy process, but you need to approach it carefully and carefully, otherwise there may be problems. The first thing to do is to punch off the copper pipes that go to the cooling grid with an allowance of at least 10 cm with pliers or side cutters, or better to the maximum, then the extra pipes will be useful (on some types of compressors there is a metal plate on the tubes with embossed numbers do not throw it away, it may also come in handy). And it is necessary to bite the tube! In no case can not cut, shavings must fall inside, then your compressor can get very sick and die. When biting off, the pipes will flatten, you can not be afraid of this, and it will help you not to pour over the oil during transportation. At this stage, I can recommend pouring a drop of oil from the compressor onto a piece of clean paper and looking for the presence of metal particles.If the dust is seen in the oil silver - you can not continue, and honor a minute of silence, the bright memory of the dead unit. The second and most important thing is that the compressor consists not only of iron, it has one more and very important organ - a starting relay. The relay looks like a small black (sometimes white) box, individually screwed with cogs next to the compressor, into it and from it there are postings. It is necessary to carefully unscrew the relay from the refrigerator, and just as carefully to disconnect the connector that goes from the relay to the compressor carcass (this applies to old pots, for other types of compressors, the relay may not be removable). The incoming 2 wires will most likely have to bite off, they still do not go straight to the plug. There is another important point - it is necessary to remember or mark in which position the relay was screwed, where the top and bottom, it happens and is signed, but not always. Why is important - about this below. And finally the third one - using 2 keys for 12, we unscrew the carcass of the compressor from the refrigerator. It is usually bolted with 4 bolts with nuts through rubber gaskets. It is desirable to take all this set of fasteners and rubber bands with you, it can be useful during the subsequent preparation for work. Chapter Two: Preparation (Domestication). So, you just got your compressor smeared with dirt and oil, with your hands scratched and drawn to the knees, tired but the satisfied finally reached his home. Now you can start preparing the compressor to work. The first thing to do - control start. Dress the relay connector on the contacts in the compressor housing. Orient and temporarily fix the relay on a horizontal surface, you can even glue it with adhesive tape. The main thing is to fasten the relay as it stood in the refrigerator, it works on the trailer of gravity and plate heating. If you misinterpret it, or just throw it on the weight - it will not work correctly, and it can end fatal both for the relay and for the winding of the compressor motor. Neatly and with the help of insulating tape we fasten to the wires entering into the relay a temporary wire with a plug. I strongly recommend to roll up the place of twisting with electrical tape, it depends on your safety and life. Modellers are so few, let's cherish them and ourselves. Clamped tubes need to be compressed with pliers, they will disperse to the sides and release the air passage. jpg "align =" ">

When everything is ready and fixed - you can plug the plug into the socket.Usually this is accompanied by a little sparking and cotton, the load is still considerable. If everything is in order - the compressor should turn on and quietly rumble. Air should go out of the tube, it is necessary to mark which of them is “inhale” and who is “exhale”. You do not need to drive for a long time, the main thing is to make sure that the assembly is working. If it is not in order and the compressor does not start, or it starts up and turns off after a while - it's not so good. For a small survey you need to be friends with electrical equipment and a tester. If you are not friends with these things - I do not recommend poking around any further. Well, if you are friends or have an idea, we will continue. It is necessary to remove the relay connector from the compressor and ring the motor windings. They should ring with little resistance among themselves in any combination. If one of the windings does not ring - we are holding the body of the deceased unit. If you call, it means you need to inspect and clean the relay. Carefully open the box and clean the contacts with fine emery paper. The main thing is not to bend them and not to break them off, it is also not necessary to rub hard. Then we collect everything back, fix it as it should be and try to turn it on again.If it does not start up again or turns off - alas, no luck ... (This is on condition that the relay is native and was bundled with this compressor. An emergency shutdown may occur due to the fact that the motor is more powerful than the one for which the relay is designed then you will have to look for another relay, and the tablet on the handset will help with this.) However, let's not talk about sad things, we hope that everything worked. Now it is necessary to assemble your unit into a more adapted and compact device. Of course, I do not pretend to the truth, everyone has their own capabilities and means to achieve this goal, but I will state my approach to the assembly of the entire device. To do this, visit the nearest auto parts store, car market or stall with spare parts. There you need to buy: Liter of engine oil for replacement, 10w40 or other mineral or semi-synthetic. usually a liter is a minimum container, but if you get lucky - there is a draft, 500 grams will suffice. At the worst, you can grease all the creaky loops in the house. Rubber reinforced oil and petrol resistant tube, about a meter long and 4 mm of internal diameter. It is not bad to have a piece of copper tube from the compressor with you, you can try on it with the necessary rubber tube. Metal clamps, 6 pieces.They need to try on a freshly bought rubber tube. They should be slightly larger in diameter. Vinyl chloride tube for glass washers. They are translucent, there are reinforced, but we do not need such. The length must be chosen depending on the location of the compressor and the comfort of work, but not less than 2 meters. 2 fine filters - one for gasoline, the second for diesel fuel. Visually different - for gasoline there is a paper harmonica inside, for a diesel engine - inside a synthetic mesh. Tube of oil and petrol resistant silicone sealant, better in thick consistency and gray, more liquid and black worse. After purchasing all of this, you need to direct your stops to the nearest hardware store. In it, you must purchase: A cord with a plug at the end, to power the compressor to the network. Long not less than 1,5 meters, it is desirable in double isolation. One-button light switch in a gated enclosure, for external installation. Furniture screws for wood 3,5 х 16 or 3х16.

Now this whole pile needs to be combined together, and we get the coveted unit. The first and most important preparation point, on which the further work and durability of the compressor depends - oil change. A lot of copies were broken about this, it is necessary to change, no need to, what oil to pour, and what not. There can be many opinions, but the right one is mine! So that there would be no empty questions like “and it works well for me on sunflower seeds!”, I’ll sign for my point of view at this moment. Inside the compressor, a pure spindle (freon, compressor - as it was not called) is poured into the factory, in fact it is mineral.It does not contain any additives, because the compressor in the refrigerator works in a closed and airless (oxygen-free) space, and is not affected by any external environment.When we begin to use it for our purposes, the situation changes drastically.On air starts to be affected by air oxygen, microparticles of dust, moisture, etc. Mineral oil is quite taken quickly clogged and oxidized, loses its properties. This leads to strong heating of the compressor during operation, noise, wear and piston system, in the end, to jamming. And despite the fact that oil was enough.Moreover, due to the small binding and wetting properties of mineral oil, it will fly intensively to the exit, clogging the air with vapor and reducing the operating level in the compressor. Automobile (motor) oil is devoid of most of these problems, primarily due to the content in it of a package of additives that compensate or completely eliminate the bad factors affecting the quality and durability of the oil. Moreover, it is designed for much more stringent operating conditions than those that will be in your compressor. For example, I use semi-synthetics engine 10w40, because it remains after changing the oil in my car. You can use both mineral and semi-synthetic oil with other indices, but I do not recommend using synthetic oils. Firstly, they are more expensive, secondly they are more fluid and less durable. I hope that I have written convincingly, although of course there will be non-believers who will persistently pour oil on any oil under their hands, and the flag to them. Let's return to our iron friend. Here there is some technical point, namely - what type of compressor fell into your hands.Visually, they are divided into 2 main types - a cylinder and a pot (it looks like a night vase covered with a convex lid). The first - almost extinct species, was used in very old types of refrigerators, ceased to be produced in the late 70s. But if you managed to get this type of compressor alive - you are really lucky. The pressure at the outlet they can give much more than the rest. The most common type of compressors is pots. The main difference for us at this stage is where to change the oil. In the cylinders most often on the side of the case a huge bolt is screwed in, it closes the filler neck. It is necessary to unscrew it with a wrench, drain the old oil from the compressor into some disposable dishes. It is advisable to measure how much this oil was. Depending on the type of cylinder they need to fill in from 300 to 500 grams of oil. Then carefully wrap the bolt back, preferably smeared it with oil-resistant sealant. With a pot a little more complicated. It usually sticks out 3 tubes - inhale, exhale and a sealed filler tube. It is desirable to change the oil through it. To do this, we need to open this tube, you can slightly cut the needle file in a circle below the flattened place,but in no case do not cut through. Then, on the notch, the tube should be broken and completely broken off, shaking sideways. The burr formed on the edge should be lightly nailed with a hammer. Then simply drain the oil from the pot, tilting it toward the tubes, into any one-time container. Remember - after the oil has drained off the compressor, in no case should it be switched on!

It is necessary to fill the compressor with a syringe, gradually pouring oil into the filling tube, it is possible to put on a rubber tube in the form of an improvised funnel. Oil in the pot requires about 250-350 grams. After refueling, the tube must be damped, otherwise the air will go through it (or vice versa - it will go past the filter, depending on the type of compressor). You can of course flatten, but it is not convenient, then you have to change the oil. I recommend screwing a small self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, under the hat of which there will be a rubber washer-gasket. As in the case of oil there are desperate or lazy comrades who will try to feed the compressor with oil on the move, pouring it into the suction tube - I highly recommend not doing so.Firstly, it is desirable to change the oil all at once, and turning on the compressor with the drained oil means killing it. Secondly - there is such a phenomenon in piston devices - hydraulic shock. This is when a fluid enters the space above the piston, in a volume larger than the volume of the compression chamber allows. Fluids, as we know, almost do not shrink, and the compressor motor will try to do this. As a result, we can get the destruction of the piston system. I hope that I am convinced. And so it will continue. Now we will put everything in a heap, according to the given scheme.

This scheme is designed for single-action airbrushes, such as our beloved "Eton" - he is Belarusian, or converted to single-action airbrushes of double-action. You can of course connect it all and leave it on weight, but this design will constantly break and fall apart. I think if you spend a little effort and combine everything on a platform or in a case - it will be more reliable and will give more pleasure from work. I do not pretend to standardize, but my type of assembly absolutely does not require the use of machine tools, welding or special tools. All materials are also available, and their cost is small.For the simplest and reliable result, you can assemble the structure on a sheet of plywood or chipboard. The dimensions of this sheet mainly depend on the type of receiver selected or mined. The receiver is needed for at least two functions - it smoothes the air pressure pulsations that are unavoidable during compressor operation, serves as a trap for vapor and oil droplets. For inexpensive single-action airbrushes, to which the widespread "Eton" belongs, he is also a Belarusian, a large-capacity receiver is completely unnecessary, a volume of about 1-2 liters is enough. Practice shows that almost any hermetically sealed container is used as a receiver, from plastic bottles for drinks and beer to industrial receivers from trucks and equipment. In my opinion, to use plastic bottles and even more so glass is somewhat unsafe, these materials do not have good mechanical strength, and even a small pressure in the receiver can break it if damaged and cause injury. You can of course use such things as a cylinder from a fire extinguisher, but this somewhat enlarges and weighs down the entire structure. The most optimal containers for the receiver are small food canisters for water from translucent white polyethylene, or, as in my example, an expansion tank from ziguls. The polyethylene from which these containers are made is rather thick and viscous, it is not afraid of mechanical damage from fallen small objects and retains its properties for quite a long time. Even if a rupture occurs, it does not give splinters or scraps of material. For those who do not want to use such materials under pressure, I can advise you to look at small welded metal canisters for fuel with a volume of 5 liters. To adjust the canister or tank for the receiver is quite simple - you need to take 2 tubes, for example copper, cut from the compressor, about 15 cm long each. Do not forget, the compressor should be left tube at least 10 cm long. In the canister lid 2 holes are drilled into which these tubes should fit tightly. Then, from the inside of the lid, the place of entry of the tubes is filled with epoxy, it is not necessary to completely fill it, it is necessary to leave another place for screwing the neck. When everything dries - you need to lubricate the neck and the cork with sealant and tightly tighten.At this point, it is important to correctly place the tubes - their tips should not be close, and the outgoing tube should be higher than the incoming one (as in the diagram). Now that everything is ready, you can estimate what sizes a sheet of plywood is needed. Strongly tight-fitting does not cost, it will be more difficult to maintain, and the compressor should have some space around for airflow and cooling. In my case, a piece of 30x40 cm was enough. You need to take plywood with a thickness of at least 9 mm, a sheet of fiberboard - 15 mm. Trimming the corners and processing the coarse sandpaper is already to the taste. But splinters in the fingers of pleasure will not deliver. In the corners of the sheet on its future lower part, it is necessary to fix legs, rubber or, for example, corks from plastic bottles with screws (a good reason to take 4 beer bottles). The main screws do not screw through to the floor or table. The legs are necessary to reduce the noise when the compressor is running, prevent it from "crawling" off, and scratching the floor is also unpleasant. Next, 4 holes are drilled for compressor mounts, bolts, I hope, did not forget to take with you? Perhaps when using a thick sheet of plywood or chipboard may not be enough length of standard bolts,then you have to buy longer complete with nuts, in the household or auto store. The most difficult thing is to fix the receiver. It must be installed first, so that the other parts of the unit would not interfere. You should not pierce the receiver through with fasteners, you need a creative approach - for example, use a rubber tube or strip, durable fabric or leather, perforated tape for packaging heavy loads, etc. One edge of the fastening tape is screwed to the plywood with a screw, spreads over the receiver and is screwed on the other side with tension.

The compressor is bolted, preferably with tubes to the edge of the plywood sheet, so it will be easier to change the oil in the future. When screwing the bolts, it is desirable to lubricate with a sealant, so they will not be loosened due to vibrations. Next to it we screw the starting relay with screws, having oriented it correctly. Next - a light switch, we connect a relay and a power cord to its contacts. It is desirable to fasten the cord itself with a clamp or eyelet to a sheet of plywood, so it will not break out of the switch.

When the electric part is finished, we proceed to the installation of the rest of the pneumatic system.At the compressor inlet with the help of a piece of rubber tube and 2 clamps we fix the fine filter for gasoline. Perhaps, this part will seem to someone superfluous, but this is not expensive, and all sorts of dust will not get inside the compressor, then from there it will not be removed. The main thing with all subsequent operations is not to fill this filter with oil, it will lose its properties from this. Next, a piece of rubber tube and 2 clamps connect the compressor output to the receiver input. We must act carefully so as not to break the tubes out of the cap. At the exit of the receiver also tighten the rubber tube with 2 clamps, fasten the filter for diesel fuel. This filter can be filled with silica gel, then it will perform 2 functions - a moisture trap and an adapter for fixing rubber and vinyl chloride tubes. You can certainly do without it, pull the vinyl chloride tube directly onto the receiver's outlet, but such a connection will not be completely tight and durable, the hose will break from the smooth copper tube. The vinyl chloride tube is usually smaller in diameter than the fitting of the filter and airbrush, does not stretch very well, and it is rather difficult to implant it.For this there is a small trick - the tip of the tube is immersed in solvent 647 for several minutes. Shallow, more than 5 mm is not worth it, otherwise it will be too flexible, and there will not be an emphasis for its fitting on the fitting. It is advisable to fix the filter and the vinyl chloride tube on a sheet of plywood, so it will not hang out and loosen the receiver tubes.

Well, almost everything. You can turn on, listen to how the air sizzles. Just do not rush into work immediately if silicone sealant is used - it needs to dry for a couple of days. Chapter Three: exploitation. There is nothing complicated here. The main thing when operating a compressor is to prevent it from overheating. Typically, the compressor is heated to a temperature of 40-45 ° C in 25-30 minutes of continuous operation. It is not necessary to work longer, it can already badly affect its resource and quality of work. During further operation, you may have to adjust the air pressure. For example, some types of compressors may produce a much larger amount of air than is necessary for an airbrush, or this is due to paint points.In this case, the compressor will create unnecessarily high pressure in the tubes, filters and receiver, and it will also work with overload and quickly heat up. In this case, we need a gearbox. The most important thing is that the gearbox in this system must be installed at the INPUT of the compressor, if it is installed at the outlet, this will also cause overload of the compressor and its rapid heating. By installing a gearbox at the inlet, we limit the amount of air passing through the compressor, thereby adjusting the pressure. The simplest and most affordable gearbox are calibrated tubes, which can be attached to the filter inlet through a rubber tube, for example, from pens of pens, or thick needles from syringes. It is possible and nasverlit most different drills. Or you can visit the nearest pet store, in the goods for the aquarium you can find very suitable even small taps and gearboxes. And on the landing diameters they are just, and cost a penny. In contrast to the calibrated tubes, they will allow you to adjust the pressure in some limits in the course of work. Chapter Four: maintenance. Compressor maintenance is not difficult,although this will have to partially remove some of the details. Of course, you can not service the unit at all, but believe me - he will answer the same. Service includes: Oil change. Replacement of filters. Draining accumulated oil from the receiver. Oil, whatever good it is, still loses its properties with time and becomes polluted. In the compressor, regardless of the mode and the amount of its operating time, it is desirable to change the oil at least once a year. For this it is necessary to remove all the tubes from it, unscrew the plug from the filling tube - a cog, and tilt the compressor to drain all the oil out of it. Remember - after that it can not be included in any case! Further, as with the first oil change, pour the required amount of oil inside with a syringe. While the tubes are removed - at the same time you can remove the old filters, pour the accumulated oil from the receiver. Do not pour this oil back into the compressor. Then install all the new filters in place, return the tubes back to the compressor. In this well help metal clamps, they allow you to repeatedly carry out such operations. Well, that seems to be all, successful work.I think any additional questions can be resolved on the forum.



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